19 Days - Backroads Of South India

Welcome to India! On arrival, you will be met and transferred to your hotel in Bangalore, the capital of Karnataka and the hub of India’s thriving technology industry. Despite its rapid modernisation, Bangalore retains a pleasant atmosphere, with tree-lined streets, colonial-era architecture, and a cosmopolitan culture that sets it apart from other major Indian cities.

The rest of the day is yours to explore at your own pace. If you’re keen to dive straight into local life, visit the Krishnarajendra (City) Market, where stalls overflow with vibrant flowers, fresh vegetables, fragrant spices, and handcrafted goods, offering a colourful and sensory introduction to India. Wander through the bustling lanes, watch traders at work, and soak in the lively energy of one of Bangalore’s oldest markets.

Alternatively, you may prefer to relax and unwind at your hotel, preparing for your journey to Coorg tomorrow, where you’ll experience the lush landscapes and cool mountain air of the Western Ghats.

Depart Bangalore this morning for the six-hour drive to Coorg, a stunning region nestled in the Western Ghats mountain range. One of South India’s most picturesque destinations, Coorg is a landscape of rugged hills, dense jungles, sprawling coffee and cardamom plantations, and vibrant rice paddies, creating a lush, green paradise.

The British, who ruled this area for over a century, were so captivated by its rolling hills, misty valleys, and cool climate that they dubbed it the ‘Scotland of India’. Even today, the refreshing mountain air, winding forest trails, and breathtaking views make Coorg a perfect retreat from the lowland heat.

At the heart of the region lies Madikeri, the capital of Coorg, perched at an altitude of 1,525 metres. A charming market town surrounded by hills and coffee estates, Madikeri is regarded as one of South India’s most scenic hill stations, offering a blend of natural beauty, colonial history, and rich local culture.

Coorg’s elevated terrain and rolling hills make it an ideal destination for trekking and outdoor adventures. Today is yours to spend as you please, whether you prefer leisurely walks, exploring the town, or engaging in activities such as fishing, golfing, birdwatching, trekking, canoeing, or even a local cookery class.

If you’re interested in sightseeing, start with Madikeri Fort, built by Raja Lingarajendra in 1812. This imposing structure houses an old Anglican church, now converted into a museum filled with British-era memorabilia. Nearby, visit the Rajas’ Tombs, with their Islamic-style gilded domes and minarets, offering commanding views of the town. Another must-see is the Omkareshwara Temple, built in 1820, which blends Islamic, Gothic, Catholic, and Keralite architectural styles around a tranquil central pool.

For those looking for a more active experience, a trek to Abbey Falls, just 7 kilometres from Madikeri, is well worth the effort. Located within a lush coffee plantation, the stepped cascades are at their most impressive during and after the monsoon season (July to October), when the falls are at full flow.

Alternatively, explore the nearby Tibetan settlements, home to the largest Tibetan community in Southern India, where several monasteries dot the landscape, offering insight into Buddhist culture and traditions.

As the day winds down, visit Raja’s Seat, a scenic viewpoint once favoured by the local kings and their consorts. This picturesque belvedere offers breathtaking sunset views, with a panoramic outlook over the cliffs and valleys to the west, making it the perfect way to end your day in Coorg.

Drive three hours into the majestic hills of the Western Ghats, arriving in Wayanad, a stunning district in northeast Kerala known for its mist-covered mountains, dense forests, deep valleys, and fertile plantations. With altitudes ranging from 700 to 2,100 metres, Wayanad’s cool climate and unspoiled natural beauty make it a haven for wildlife, adventure, and cultural exploration. The name Wayanad translates to ‘Land of Paddy Fields’, reflecting the region’s rich agricultural heritage and its lush, green landscapes.

Despite its breathtaking scenery, Wayanad remains one of Kerala’s least populated districts, home to several indigenous tribal communities who have lived in harmony with nature for centuries. Their traditions, art, and way of life continue to shape the region’s unique cultural identity.

On arrival, settle into your small, family-run guesthouse, where you’ll experience warm local hospitality in a peaceful setting surrounded by verdant forests and rolling hills. The rest of the day is yours to relax - breathe in the fresh mountain air, take a leisurely stroll through the gardens and plantations, or simply unwind and enjoy the tranquillity of this serene hill district.

Spend the day exploring the rich agricultural and natural landscapes of Wayanad. Visit tea, pepper, cardamom, vanilla, coffee, banana, and coconut plantations, where you can walk through lush fields, learn about traditional farming techniques, and experience the fragrant aromas of freshly grown spices and crops.

For those looking for adventure, take a guided trek into the hills, where you’ll pass through misty forests, rolling meadows, and rugged terrain, offering stunning views of the Western Ghats. Alternatively, embark on a jeep safari to one of Wayanad’s wildlife sanctuaries, venturing into dense forests teeming with biodiversity. Keep an eye out for wild elephants, Indian bison, langur monkeys, sambar, and spotted deer, as well as a fascinating variety of birdlife and flora unique to this region.

If history and culture interest you, visit the Edakkal Caves, home to prehistoric rock carvings dating back thousands of years. These ancient petroglyphs offer a glimpse into early human civilisation, with intricate engravings of human figures, animals, and mysterious symbols etched into the cave walls.

Whether you choose to immerse yourself in Wayanad’s agricultural heritage, trek through its scenic hills, encounter wildlife, or uncover its ancient past, the day promises to be a memorable experience in this diverse and breathtaking region.

This morning, set off on the three-hour drive to Kannur, a seaside gem along the Malabar Coast. Your accommodation for the next two nights will be at either Costa Malabari or Ayesha Manzil, each offering a distinct experience of Kerala’s coastal charm.

Costa Malabari is a small, family-run guesthouse perched near a semi-private beach, overlooking the Arabian Sea. With its simple yet welcoming atmosphere, it provides a peaceful retreat for those looking to unwind by the ocean. While it does not offer air conditioning, its sea breezes, stunning location, and reputation for excellent home-cooked meals more than make up for it.

For a more heritage-style stay, Ayesha Manzil offers a taste of colonial-era elegance. Built in 1862 by a trader from the East India Company, this beautifully preserved mansion exudes old-world charm, with spacious rooms, antique furnishings, and sweeping views of the Arabian Sea. Renowned for its warm hospitality and outstanding cuisine, Ayesha Manzil is a food lover’s paradise, serving traditional Malabari dishes, with an emphasis on freshly caught seafood and rich, aromatic spices.

Enjoy a day at leisure, whether you choose to relax by the coast or explore the small fishing villages that dot the shoreline. Stroll through these charming coastal settlements, where you can watch fishermen hauling in their daily catch, traditional wooden boats resting on the sand, and local markets bustling with life.

Your host will be happy to recommend local activities, and with a private vehicle and driver at your disposal, you have the flexibility to venture further into the region. Optional day trips could include scenic backwater cruises, visits to local temples, or exploring historic sites that reveal more about Kannur’s fascinating past and cultural heritage.

While in the area, you may have the unique opportunity to witness a Theyyam performance (typically held between October and May). This deeply spiritual and theatrical ritual is exclusive to northern Kerala and combines music, dance, body painting, and elaborate costumes, transforming the performer into a living deity. Accompanied by the rhythmic beat of drums and hypnotic chants, a Theyyam ceremony is a powerful and immersive experience, offering an unforgettable insight into Kerala’s vibrant religious traditions.

Set out on a four-and-a-half-hour drive to your home for the next two nights, Olappamanna Mana, a heritage homestay located in Vellinezhi, a small village renowned for its rich traditions of music and dance.

Once the residence of wealthy feudal lords, Olappamanna Mana was a major patron of Kerala’s classical arts, transforming it into an important centre for artistic learning. Over the years, it became a hub for Kathakali - Kerala’s iconic classical dance - as well as Carnatic music, Melam and Thayampaka (percussive ensembles), and traditional Vedic and Sanskrit studies. Even today, the homestay retains its strong cultural roots, offering visitors a rare glimpse into Kerala’s artistic heritage.

This eco-friendly heritage stay provides a peaceful retreat amid lush greenery, where you can experience the charm of traditional Kerala architecture, enjoy warm local hospitality, and immerse yourself in the rhythms of village life.

Vellinezhi offers the chance to enjoy exceptional Kerala-style vegetarian cuisine and experience traditional cultural activities. If you’re interested, you may have the opportunity to witness a puja ceremony, a captivating ritual involving dance, prayer, and drumming around a giant sand painting of the goddess Kali, held in the main building.

The day is yours to relax and soak in the peaceful surroundings. Whether you choose to wander the grounds, observe daily village life, or simply unwind in this serene environment, your time here provides a unique and immersive glimpse into Kerala’s rich cultural and spiritual traditions.

After breakfast, set off on a five-hour drive to a small village near Dindigul, where you’ll stay at Cardamom House, a charming and unpretentious guesthouse set on the edge of a lake at the foot of the Western Ghats. Owned by a friendly English expat who has lived in the region for many years, Cardamom House offers a warm and welcoming atmosphere, making it an ideal retreat from the bustle of city life.

The guesthouse is part of a traditional eco-farm, following sustainable practices similar to organic farming. Water and waste are carefully recycled, and solar power is used to support its daily operations, allowing guests to enjoy a stay that is both comfortable and environmentally responsible. The surrounding landscape, with rolling hills, lush greenery, and a tranquil lake, provides a serene setting for relaxation and exploration.

This morning, take a guided walk to a nearby village for a glimpse into daily life in a typical Tamil Nadu town. Stroll through its narrow streets, past traditional homes, bustling tea stalls, and local markets, gaining insight into the community’s customs and routines.

If you prefer to stay closer to the guesthouse, you might enjoy a walk around the lake, where you can spot native birdlife and observe the region’s flora and fauna. A visit to the small local temple offers a chance to experience Tamil Nadu’s spiritual traditions, while the eco-farm provides an opportunity to learn about sustainable farming techniques, many of which have been practised in the region for generations.

In the late afternoon, make your way to the rooftop terrace to watch the sunset over the Western Ghats.

Leave Dindigul this morning for the two-hour drive to Chettinad, a distinctive region of Tamil Nadu known for its grand mansions, arid landscapes, and unique cultural heritage. Unlike the lush greenery of other parts of the state, Chettinad’s small settlements are characterised by wide, well-planned streets, lined with ornate palatial homes, some of the finest examples of domestic architecture in Tamil Nadu.

These mansions were built in the late 19th and early 20th centuries by the Chettiar community, a prosperous group of merchants and financiers who amassed great wealth through trading and banking connections across Southeast Asia. Influenced by their travels, they incorporated Burmese teak, Italian marble, Belgian chandeliers, and European tiles into their homes, creating a fusion of South Indian and colonial design.

On arrival, check in to your accommodation - one of these beautifully restored heritage mansions, where you can experience the grandeur and craftsmanship of Chettinad’s architectural legacy. The rest of the afternoon is free to relax and explore at your own pace, whether by wandering the quiet streets, admiring the mansions, or simply unwinding in the peaceful surroundings.

Spend today exploring the nearby small towns of Chettinad, where the grandeur of a bygone era is reflected in the unique architecture and lavish interiors of the region’s mansions. The Chettiar community amassed much of their wealth through trading and banking overseas, and their exposure to international influences is evident in the design, materials, and furnishings of their homes.

Unlike traditional Tamil Nadu architecture, these mansions feature European-inspired woodwork and stonework, with intricate carvings and stately facades reminiscent of French and other Western styles. The materials were sourced from all over the world - Italian marble for floors and pillars, Belgian wall-to-wall mirrors, Burmese teak for doors and ceilings, crystal chandeliers from Europe, and fine porcelain from Indonesia.

Wandering through these once opulent but now fading mansions is a chance to appreciate the extraordinary craftsmanship and wealth that defined this community. Many of these homes, though weathered by time, still stand as reminders of an era of prosperity, offering a glimpse into the luxurious lives once led within their walls.

Depart Chettinad this morning for the drive to Tanjore (Thanjavur), a city renowned for its rich cultural heritage and magnificent temples. The highlight of your visit is the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Brihadeeswara Temple, a masterpiece of Chola-era architecture that dominates the city’s skyline.

On arrival, check in to your hotel and enjoy lunch before setting out to explore the temple complex. Built over 1,000 years ago by Raja Raja Chola I, this architectural marvel is particularly significant for its ingenious engineering techniques. The temple’s 60-metre-high central vimana (tower) is crowned by an 80-tonne granite capstone, believed to have been placed using an elaborate system of ramps and wheels, an extraordinary feat of craftsmanship and construction for its time.

A guided tour of the Brihadeeswara Temple offers deeper insight into its intricate carvings, inscriptions, and rich history, helping you appreciate its spiritual significance and enduring legacy as one of South India’s greatest temple complexes.

Leave Tanjore this morning for the two-and-a-half-hour drive to the picturesque coastal town of Tranquebar. Known in Tamil as Tharangambadi, meaning ‘land of the waves’, the town was renamed Tranquebar in 1620, when it became a Danish trading settlement. It remained under Danish rule for over 200 years, governed by a series of Danish officials, until the British took over its administration in the 19th century.

Your accommodation, The Bungalow on the Beach, is a beautifully restored governor’s mansion, offering a blend of history, heritage, and coastal charm. Sitting between two historic landmarks, the property is flanked by an early 14th-century Pandya temple on one side and the 17th-century Danish Fort Dansborg on the other, making it one of Tamil Nadu’s most unique heritage stays.

With its colonial-era architecture, sea views, and peaceful ambience, Tranquebar provides an ideal retreat, where you can soak in the town’s Danish-Indian history, stroll along the windswept coastline, and experience the quiet charm of this former European settlement.

Spend the day exploring Tranquebar at your own pace and enjoying your heritage accommodation, set against the backdrop of this once-thriving Danish colony. The restored bungalows and colonial-era buildings serve as a reminder of the town’s European past, when a Danish Governor and an Admiral were sent to India by the King of Denmark. Welcomed by the Nayak ruler of Tanjore, they were granted this territory and established Dansborg Fort to facilitate the export of pepper and spices to Denmark.

A visit to Dansborg Fort provides insight into Tranquebar’s colonial history. Built in 1620, this imposing structure on the shoreline once served as the headquarters of the Danish East India Company. Today, the fort houses a small but fascinating museum, displaying artefacts and documents that chronicle the Danish presence in South India.

Also worth exploring is the deserted Tranquebar Mission complex, home to India’s first Protestant mission. Established by German missionaries under Danish patronage, the mission played a crucial role in introducing Lutheran Christianity to India. The oldest Lutheran church in the country, built in 1706, still stands within the premises, alongside a cemetery containing historic tombstones that offer a glimpse into the town’s multi-layered history.

Leave Tranquebar this morning for the four-hour coastal drive to Pondicherry, a former French colonial enclave that has evolved from a laid-back retreat into a vibrant destination known for its café culture, eclectic restaurants, and boutique shopping. Despite its growing popularity, the French Quarter retains its charm, with quiet tree-lined streets, pastel-coloured colonial villas, and a relaxed atmosphere that invites leisurely exploration.

Pondicherry’s grid-patterned layout clearly divides the town into two distinct sections. The French Quarter, located east of the canal, reflects its colonial past, with elegant boulevards, charming bistros, and the whitewashed Eglise de Notre Dame des Anges. Meanwhile, the Tamil Quarter, on the western side, offers a lively contrast, with bustling markets, traditional Tamil mansions with pillared courtyards, and colourful Hindu temples.

The afternoon is yours to explore at your own pace, whether wandering through the contrasting neighbourhoods, visiting heritage buildings, or simply enjoying the town’s unique blend of French and Indian influences. As the day draws to a close, join locals and visitors alike for an early evening promenade along Goubert Salai (Beach Road), a popular tradition in Pondicherry. Stroll along the seafront, taking in the gentle sea breeze and a spectacular sunset, as the town slows down for the evening.

Start the morning with a leisurely stroll through the broad, tree-lined boulevards of Pondicherry’s French Quarter, where graceful colonial villas draped in bougainvillea reflect the town’s European heritage. With their shaded verandas, pastel façades, and quiet courtyards, these charming streets offer a serene contrast to the energy of the Tamil Quarter.

Make a stop at the Sri Aurobindo Ashram, a peaceful spiritual retreat founded in 1926 by Sri Aurobindo. Located in the heart of the town, the ashram attracts devotees and visitors from around the world, drawn to its philosophy of inner harmony and self-transformation. Wander through its meditative spaces, taking in the calm atmosphere and the legacy of one of India’s most influential spiritual leaders.

Leaving behind the quiet courtyards and shaded streets of the French Quarter, cross the ‘Grand Canal’ (now dry) into the bustling Tamil Quarter. In contrast to the tranquillity of the European side, this area pulses with the rhythms of daily life in South India - narrow streets packed with small shops and homes, vibrant markets overflowing with flowers and spices, and the constant hum of beeping traffic. The contrast between these two worlds - one a remnant of colonial elegance, the other a lively Indian town at its most authentic - makes for a fascinating glimpse into Pondicherry’s unique cultural identity.

You may like to spend this morning doing some last-minute shopping before departing Pondicherry. While it may be a cliché, Pondicherry truly is a shopper’s paradise, with fixed prices and a relaxed, pressure-free experience. Boutiques line almost every street, offering an eclectic mix of textiles, leather goods, pottery, handicrafts, aromatics, fashion, and antiques, catering to a wide range of tastes.

For a completely different shopping experience, head to M.G. Road on a Sunday, where the lively local market is in full swing. Packed with vendors, colourful stalls, and a bustling crowd, this is authentic Tamil Pondicherry at its most vibrant - a fascinating contrast to the city's stylish boutiques and European influences.

In the afternoon, depart for the three-hour drive to Chennai Airport for your onward journey or flight home. If time allows, you have the option to stop en route at Mahabalipuram, a UNESCO World Heritage site renowned for its sculpted rock temples and the iconic Shore Temple. This extraordinary display of Tamil art and ancient craftsmanship, set against the backdrop of the Bay of Bengal, provides a fitting end to your journey through South India.