Kolkata

Arrive Kolkata in the evening. You’ll be met on arrival and transferred to Fairlawn, our accommodation for the next three nights.

Known as a centre for culture and learning, Calcutta (now Kolkata) was the capital of India during the British Raj when it was a leading centre for commerce and a port of call for east bound ships. Patronised by wealthy art connoisseurs, who nourished writers, artists, musicians, filmmakers, philosophers and scientists, it became the social and cultural capital of India. With its rich colonial heritage as well as wonderful mosques, temples, universities and museums, this city has an overwhelming wealth of sights and experiences to offer visitors.

The Elgin Fairlawn

Located at the heart of the most lively and historic part of the city, The Elgin Fairlawn is an award-winning heritage hotel in a colonial-era building circa 1783. Popular landmarks like Indian Museum, Victoria Memorial and the charming Park Street are within walking distance from the hotel.

The spacious rooms have an en suite and some delightful luxury flourishes. It also houses a Garden Cafe and a Lobby Lounge which has been a Sudder Street landmark for many years.

https://www.elginhotels.com/hotels-in-kolkata-elgin-fairlawn-heritage-hotel-since-1783/

Introduction to Kolkata

We attempt to have a reasonably low-key introduction to Kolkata today. Keeping the breaks on the group’s enthusiasm is tricky because Kolkata is such an amazing city, with both a significant past and an intriguing, ever-evolving present. We’ll visit the flower market, walk the Howrah bridge, take a ferry on the Hooghly River, walk through Kumartuli (filled with clay idol workshops) and finish with the Victoria Memorial, with a stop for a local lunch along the way.

Exploring Kolkata

Today we have a full day of exploring Kolkata. Though rapidly modernising, the city retains a manual ‘hand-powered’ aspect that’s fascinating to the visitor. Hand-pulled carts, street book stalls and buildings of the colonial age vie with towering apartment blocks and advertising hoardings for attention – a microcosm of a larger tension playing out across India.

We begin the day with a walking tour run by ‘Calcutta Walks’. Their walks aim to bring to life aspects of the city which are mostly missed or misunderstood by the casual observer. The walk takes place in ‘the natives’ area’, Sovabazar, an evervital hub of traditional Bengali culture. It contains a fascinating blend of the seemingly incongruous architectural forms from Islamic to Baroque, from Victorian to Bengali, which made up the old world dwellings of the city’s wealthier Bengalis. Unchanged for several decades, this is a good place to observe the Bengali way of life – rituals, customs, cultural practices and so on and the manual, slow pace of life that Kolkata is known for.

In the afternoon we change gears and visit Mother’s House – the home and now memorial of Mother Theresa – and finish the day with a visit to a beautiful Jain temple.

Meals: B, D

Flight and drive to Kalimpong

We fly to Bagdogra this morning. Bagdogra sits in the Siliguri Corridor or so called ‘Chickens Neck of India’, a 20 km wide stretch of India sandwiched between Bangladesh, Bhutan and Nepal which connects the seven states of northeast India to the rest of India. Here we meet Kabir and drive for approximately 4 hours to Kalimpong, where we spend the next three nights.

Kalimpong sits on a ridge overlooking the Teesta River and the Himalayas. Located at an average elevation of 1,250 metres, it is well known for its horticulture (particularly its wide array of orchids and gladioli) and spectacular views. Up to the early 1700s, the Kalimpong area was part of the Sikkim raja’s domain. In the early 18th century, the Bhutan king took it over. In 1865, following the Anglo-Bhutan War, it was annexed to Darjeeling. Scottish missionaries came here in the late 1800s and the town thrived as a wool-trading centre with Tibet until the 1950s. Until recently Kalimpong was a quiet hill town, but has become busier as plains’ people have rediscovered its comfortable climate and scenic beauty.

On arrival check into our hotel, if there is time and energy we can head out for a look around and stretch of the legs. Being his home town, Kabir will be keen to showcase Kalimpong to us.

Mayfair Himalayan Resort, Kalimpong

The Mayfair Himalayan Resort has several wings and sections spread across an impressive expanse of hill land which on clear days affords panoramic views of the main Himalayan range. The hotel has a rich and fascinating history with guests ranging from world leaders to the first mountaineering pioneers to climb Mt Everest.

https://www.mayfairhotels.com/mayfair-kalimpong/

Meals: B, D

Exploring Kalimpong surrounds on foot

We head out of town for our first countryside walk.

Today’s walk will focus on gaining an understanding of the rural lifestyle in the villages of Kalimpong. This is Kabir’s home
territory and thus fertile ground for exploring and learning. The walk takes us through agricultural lands and some forest
patches. As Kalimpong is mainly an agriculture town, you will also get an opportunity to learn about the techniques of
terrace farming practiced in the hills. In the villages, we can interact with local community members, learning about the
area, culture and heritage through their tales. We wind up at Kabir’s farm for lunch, prepared by Kabir’s wife Ahana.

Trail notes: Our first two days of walks are a good gentle introduction to walking in the hills – it will ease us into ‘Nepalese
flat’ ie undulating terrain which is the norm in the region. The paths today are a mix of village pathways and tarmac roads in
some sections. Total distance is around 9 kms. We’ll be out for the best part of the day.

Meals: B, L, D

Exploring Kalimpong on foot

Kalimpong has a regular haat (or local market). It is a visual treat to see the cornucopia of items sold and a wonderful
introduction to the local way of life. On sale could be anything from seeds, seasonal vegetables and fruits, to flowers,
spices, livestock, clothes and much more. This morning we will visit the haat.

Afterwards we continue walking uphill through villages, with a stop at Dr Graham’s Homes (DGH), a 116 year old
missionary school. On a clear day, you get stunning views of the majestic Himalayan peaks whilst on this trail. The trail
then descends back to the main road where we visit a private home to learn the basics of preparing a Nepali dish – Nepali
being one of the dominant ethnic communities of the area. The cooking demonstration will be followed by lunch. (The
cooking demonstration is very casual; if you prefer to eat rather than cook you can relax with a glass of plum wine instead!)

Afterwards we visit an amazing nursery where literally hundreds of species of plants are cultivated. In the late afternoon
there is the option to explore town or return to the hotel for a rest, before dinner at the hotel.

Once again the distance is 8 – 10 kms. After walking through town and the haat we climb up to Dr Graham’s Homes on
made road through the outskirts of Kalimpong, and then descend to the lunch spot on a small village path.

Meals: B, L, D

Travel day – drive to Rinchenpong

This morning we depart Kalimpong, dropping back down to the Teesta River and crossing over into Sikkim. We stop at the
state border to obtain an ‘Inner Line Permit’, the special permission required for all foreign visitors to Sikkim. (Sikkim was
an independent country until 1975, and retains a number of measures and controls relating to government, bureaucracy,
taxation and policing most usually associated with a sovereign state – one of the many fascinating aspects of the region
and something we will learn more about as we travel). We continue driving for around 3 hours to Rinchenpong, and check
in to Yangsum Heritage Farm. We’ll stop for lunch en route (direct payment).

The heritage farmhouse, Yangsum, was built in 1833 and re-modelled in 1966. The homestay is run by Thendup Tashi and
his wife, Pema, who manage the 44-acre mountain farm consisting of open mixed forest of pine, Himalayan alder, schima,
chestnut, magnolia, rhododendrons, cherry and others. The farmhouse is tucked away far from the crowds, in an idyllic
countryside, with a backdrop of the Khangchendzonga group of peaks.

Yangsum Farm is a rustic lodge, simpler than our other accommodations. It is a chance to experience a more personal
Sikkimese hospitality, and an ideal place to access remote west Sikkim.

The afternoon is a chance to settle in, meet our hosts and enjoy this unique spot.

Meals: B, D

Walk to Rinchenpong monastery

After breakfast, we hike to the Rinchenpong monastery and an old Lepcha heritage house. The walk takes us through both
forested patches and small farming hamlets.

The humble Rinchenpong monastery, built in 1739, belongs to the Nyngma sect of Tibetan Buddhism. There is also an
active monastic school for young monks, who number around 100. After visiting the monastery, we continue to climb for
another 30 minutes, leading to the hill top where an old Gompa, a Tibetan Buddhist place of learning, is located. Further on
we’ll stop for a simple picnic lunch in the yard of a Lepcha heritage house (Lepchas are considered to be the indigenous
people of Sikkim). Thereafter we make our way back to our farmstay.

Trail notes: Today’s walk is predominantly through forest, with occasional patches of agricultural land and a few village
hamlets. Elevation gain/loss is greater today than the walks around Kalimpong. We’ll be out for the best part of the day.

Meals: B, L, D

Day walk in Uttarey

Today we drive westerly for around 2 hours to Uttarey, which was a thriving business hub until 1970s for Indo-Nepal trade.
Materials such as ayurvedic herbs, animal skins, dairy products, local distilleries’ produce and cattle were bartered for salt,
flour and rice. It is also believed to be the route via which the much-revered Guru Padmasambhava walked into Sikkim.

We explore the surrounding area and villages, with a mix of uphill and downhill terrain, passing through small farms and
forested areas. Being a border region to Nepal, you can see Nepalese influence in the villages – in how they build their
houses, what they wear and even the dialect they speak. Lunch will be at a village home.

Trail notes: The walk is once again Nepalese flat terrain, on village walking paths and country roads.

In the late afternoon drive back to Rinchenpong and overnight Yangsum Farm.

Meals: B, L, D

Travel day – drive to Turuk

After a leisurely breakfast, we drive to Turuk (3.5 hours), located in south Sikkim, and check in to Turuk Kothi. En route,
conditions permitting, we take a short walk down to a small but important Buddhist shrine located on the banks of the River
Rungeet.

Turuk Kothi, built in 1848, is an old mountain estate – now home to the fifth generation of the Pradhan family. Turuk Kothi
was home to the first minter of Sikkim, Laxmi Das Pradhan and also served as the District Headquarters for many years.
Even after over 160 years, the descendants of Laxmi Das Pradhan continue to live in the same house. (Kabir is related to
the family who owns and runs Turuk Kothi, so it will be a homecoming of sorts!)

We have lunch on arrival, and later in the afternoon there is the option to walk along the quiet hill roads that run in either
direction from the property.

Meals: B, L, D

Walk to Tarey Bhir

After breakfast, we walk in the surrounding region. Passing through small villages we reach Tarey Bhir. The word ‘Bhir’
means cliff in the local Nepali dialect and this Bhir has a 3,500 feet abrupt drop.

On reaching Tarey Bhir, we can continue to walk further down on the ridge to a viewpoint from where you can catch a
glimpse of the confluence of the River Teesta and River Rangeet and the boundless expanse of blue hills of the Eastern
Himalayas. Afterwards we return to Turuk Kothi for a late lunch and the afternoon at leisure – a good chance to catch up on
some reading and later migrate to the fire for a glass of wine.

Trail notes: The walk starts out with an uphill climb on quiet tarmac roads and farming paths, eventually reaching Tarey
Bhir. From here there is a pathway along a pronounced ridge – the bhir – though thankfully on a well-made footpath with a
sturdy handrail. The views along here are stunning. The total distance today is less than previous days, however the
gradient is greater.

Meals: B, L, D

Travel day – drive to Darjeeling

This morning we leave Turuk and south Sikkim, crossing back over the Teesta River and into West Bengal. From here it’s a
steep climb up through tea plantations to the famed hill station of Darjeeling. The total drive is around 4 hours, though a lot
depends on the traffic in Darjeeling.

Darjeeling has been a popular hill station since the British established it as a rest and recreation centre for officials of the
East India Company in the mid-1800s. Situated at an altitude of 2100m Darjeeling is surrounded by tea plantations from all
sides. Outside the monsoon season and on clear days, the views over the mountains to the snowy peaks of
Khangchendzonga are some of the best in the region.

This afternoon there is the option to explore Darjeeling at your own pace, which will have a ‘big city’ feel after our time in
the countryside. The main bazaar is a riot of shops selling everything from daily needs to knick knacks to Tibetan rugs.

Windamere Hotel

Windamere is situated on Observatory Hill, a Darjeeling landmark. Established in the 19th century as a cosy boarding
house for bachelor English and Scottish tea planters, it was converted into a hotel just before the outbreak of the Second
World War. Today it is well known for its ambience and charm. Its uniquely decorated, vintage-style rooms are named after
historical figures who have stayed in them. The location of the hotel is the best of any in Darjeeling, perfect for stepping out
into the thick of the action.

http://www.windamerehotel.com/

Meals: B, D

Exploring Darjeeling

For the early-risers there’s a fabulous sunrise view of the main range to be had from the Mall Rd just behind the hotel.

This morning we visit the main bazaar, crisscrossing town on narrow laneways and steep stairways to take in everyday life
in this regional centre, as well as some of the historical points of interest. Towards the end of the morning we’ll stop for a
light lunch (direct payment).

After lunch, we walk to Darjeeling Station to see the engineering marvel of the DHR – the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway.
We take a joy ride to Ghum, the highest railway station in India. From here we have a drive of 90 mins to Glenburn Tea
Estate, our accommodation for the next two nights.

Meals: B, D

Glenburn Tea Estate

Glenburn Tea Estate was started by a Scottish tea company in 1859, eventually passing into the hands of one of India’s
pioneering tea planting families – the Prakash family. Today, the property is managed by the third and fourth generation of
the family who carry almost a century of tea knowledge in their inheritance. With over 400 hectares of private forest and
two rivers running through the estate, this is a delightfully peaceful place to stay and explore.

http://www.glenburnteaestate.com/

Walking from Glenburn

Today, after bed-tea and breakfast, we walk down to the Glenburn Campsite, situated on the banks of the River Rungeet.
The Glenburn guide/naturalist will lead the way, taking us through extensive tea plantations and several small villages, past
streams and waterfalls, and finally the Simbong forest to the Rungeet itself. Along the way there are views across the valley
to Sikkim and to Kalimpong. The forests contain a rich diversity of birds, butterflies, flora and animals typical to this habitat.
We’ll have a picnic lunch by the river. Afterwards you have the option for further walking along the river, or to return to the
main bungalow to enjoy the final afternoon in the hills.

Meals: B, L, D

Travel day – drive and flight to Kolkata, departure

We farewell the hills and Kabir today. Transfer to Bagdogra airport (3.5 hours) and fly to Kolkata, where we connect with
international or domestic flights, or transfer to accommodation for those extending their stay in Kolkata. (Please get in touch
if you would like to stay on in Kolkata or would like to continue travelling in India with tailor-made private travel
arrangements – see www.indiaunbound.com.au for suggested itineraries or contact Lincoln for personalised suggestions
based on your interests and requirements).

Meals: B