I continue to be amazed by how many wonderful heritage hotels dot the Rajasthan countryside. One such property is Castle Bera, which sits conveniently between Jodhpur and Udaipur. I first used this property earlier in the year when all the usual suspects were sold out. Very glowing reports flowed back from the travellers, who said the charming owner, the sunset jeep safari to view leopards (along with mid-safari sundowners), and the genuine heritage quality of the buildings gave them a perfect three day experience of a side of Rajasthan they did not know existed. There are many such properties throughout Rajasthan (eg Roppangarh Fort, Rawla Narlai (pictured, apparently favoured by Mick Jagger) and Rawla Jojawar) and hopping from one to another offers an alternative to the usual fort and palace sightseeing of the major cities. If you have visited India previously and are looking for something different, you will find the Rajasthan and Gujarat Backroads itinerary variation is ideal.